20th century Japanese kimono exhibit at Ringling Museum
And Mark bids adieu
"Fashioning Kimono – Art Deco and Modernism in Japan" is on view at the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art through Feb. 8. It is a handsome exhibition beautifully installed in the Searing Galleries. The dozens of kimonos once worn by women, children and men from the Montgomery Collection in Lugano, Switzerland, are displayed on metal T-stands that maximize the exposure of the flat pattern of the garment while leaving us to guess the stature of the wearers. (My guess for women was less than 5 feet tall to almost 6 feet.)
The exhibition is accompanied by black and white photographs from the collection of the International Hokusai Research Center in Milan. While these are not individually labeled, they do give us some idea how the kimono looked in motion or repose as worn by women in Japan in the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s. Sometimes details such as a fingertip Marcel wave hairstyle help us date an image. Too bad there could not have been more description of the photographs.
However, the main attraction is the various kimonos on display and they do not disappoint in the variety of their design and charm. The photographs help us understand how they were worn. One can then imagine perhaps the personality of the woman who would choose a particular pattern, color and material.
The major premise of this show is that the designs, patterns and palettes of Japanese kimono were influenced by art forms and art movements in Europe. The impact of the Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods in particular are evident in the bold, simple and colorful designs.
Woman's formal kimono, Tashio Period, 1920s.
This new exhibition has been staged next to one that opened earlier this year that focused on how the West influenced 20th century Japanese prints. It is a fascinating juxtaposition. I encourage visitors to cross back and forth between the galleries. For, while Japanese artists working with paper or silk may have wanted to integrate certain aspects of another culture into their own objects, the foundation and overriding impact of the fused product be it a woodcut or a kimono is unquestionably Japanese.
The exhibition organized by Art Services International, Alexandria, Va., presents kimonos in precious hand-painted silk, silk rayon blends and silk crepe. While one cannot touch the fabric of the kimono, the display and lighting allows one to appreciate the sturdy delicacy of the fabrics.
Although the women’s clothing is the most spectacular, there is on view examples of men’s wear and kimonos for boys and little children. The boys’ are particularly fascinating in that the patterns reflect the universal interest of boys in cars, trains and puppies. The only one somewhat disturbing youth outfit that the label says is from the ‘20s is one decorated with war planes, tanks and destroyers.
The museum is providing a free brochure. A beautiful hardbound catalog is $70 and adorable kimono patterned one-piece outfits for 1-month-olds are $40. There are also cotton and polyester kimonos to be purchased beginning at $65.
Bidding adieu
This is my last column for About Art. I have accepted a full-time position at the Ringling College of Art and Design. I have enjoyed the past nine years immensely and I am grateful to everyone who helped me to bring information about our arts scene to you the reader. I shall always be indebted to my editors Anne Johnson and Rachel Hackney who gave me the opportunity to write for this paper that everyone has always told me (and I agree) is "the" source for what is happening in Sarasota. It has been a privilege.
And to Thyrza Jacocks who recommended me to Anne almost 10 years ago – thank you.
November 27th 2008 - 3:23PM